The Waverly Inn

16 Bank Street
At Waverly Place

What makes it hot: the nightly big-name celebrity sightings, the paparrazi lurking in the shadows, its beautiful, serene west village location (which belies the hipness of it all).

Rating: Almost Addictive

Cuisine: American/Mediterranean
Entree Price: $13-$36
Meals: Open for dinner every day.
Most addictive dish: seared salmon toro

Review

Two things are certain at the Waverly Inn – celebrities and celebrity gawkers. I saw Angelica Huston, Salmon Rushdie and some famous pop singer…and that was just on my first visit. Most of the big names in the neighborhood are regulars here, and that’s why you’ll see the paparazzi casing the joint at all hours.

With all the hoopla surrounding Waverly Inn, you really want to turn your nose up at the place in disdain. Who needs sceney people and sceney people chasers mucking up an otherwise perfect neighborhood? Unfortunately, dishes like the seared salmon toro, the wood-grilled mussels and the Dover sole with hollandaise make such snubbing quite difficult. Many people have written this place off as just a “see and be seen” place, but I’ve found the food to be really quite nice.

It’s worth the crowds, but go early to be sure you get a table. During the summer, the few small tables outside are perfect because you avoid the chaos inside, you can bask in the beautiful scenery of Bank Street, and you can catch glimpses of the random stars ducking in and out of the restaurant without feeling like so much of a gawker.

Charles

What makes it hot: celebs at ever turn, urban-goth-chic interior, gorgeous staff, seemingly difficult-to-get reservations (via email only).

234 W 4th Street
NY, NY 10014
No phone number
Email: reservations@restaurantcharles.com

Rating: Safe

Cuisine: American
Entree Price: $20-$39
Hours: Mon-Sat: 6PM to close; Sun: 11-11

Most addictive dish: none so far

Review

 

“Yes, that is Gina Gershon and Dan Abrams sitting right there.”

The people next to us kept asking who everyone was. Luckily, I brought along my expert celeb-spotter as my dining companion that night, knowing he would pick out at least one – and field questions from our neighbors when they asked. I never seem to spot the stars (even when John Stewart was sitting right next to me at Bubby’s)…I’m just there for the food.

Speaking of the food, a strange thing happened after this meal. I sat down the next night to write the review, and I couldn’t remember exactly what we had…”let’s see..where are my notes…hmmm…what’s that? We had tuna? I don’t remember that! …Oh yeah, that’s right. We did have the seared tuna appetizer…”

…but I’ll get back to the food in a minute…you don’t really go to Charles for the food. The food is fine. It’s the people there who really hold your attention…

After our heads swiveled away from Gina, we found ourselves staring around the room and resting on two swan-like women at the bar in almost identical black, shimmery dresses drinking the same mauve cocktail, mirroring each other as they sipped. We then noticed a group of slick, randy Euros posing in dark Italian suits that seemed specifically tailored for their sinewy bodies. There was something about the purposeful yet composed movement of the crowd, the very low lighting, and the swaths of black cloth that almost seemed to blur the lines between where one person began and another ended. And as the lines blurred, the patrons became amorphous shapes, and my friend and I found ourselves identifying the shape of a moth created by one couple’s pairing and a Shar Pei created by another’s. Who knew Charles was really an elaborate Rorschach Inkblot Test??

…or to put it less obtusely, Charles is a sceney scene with that dark, urban-goth-chic feel that trend followers love.

The hostess: beautiful. The bartender: stunning. And, per the scenester’s handbook, there is no sign outside.

Now back to the food…

Eventually, I was able to piece our meal back together. We started with the coriander crusted tuna appetizer, which was good. We also had short ribs. Good. We had a lobster salad. Good. There was really nothing wrong with anything we had. We even had a chocolate lava cake sort of dessert thing and a version of an ice cream sandwich – both of which were (I bet you can guess) good. The thing about Charles is that they’re not in the game for the food. If they were, I don’t think you’d see stuff like seared tuna on the menu. The food is good enough..and that’s all it has to be for those who want to bask in all the “itness” that is a place like Charles.

 

Locanda Verde

379 Greenwich Street (at N Moore)
New York, NY 10013
212-925-3797

What makes it hot: It's always tricky to find a fashionable restaurant that also happens to have spectacular food. Luckily, Locanda Verde delivers both in spades.

Rating: Mind Altering

Cuisine: Italian
Entree Price: $14-$26
Hours: M-F: 7AM-11PM; S&S: 5:30PM-11PM; Brunch begins Aug 1st

Most addictive dish: sheeps' milk ricotta with sea salt and herbs

Review

My eyes were rolling back in my head and the walls were melting mid meal at Locanda Verde, and I found myself wondering how the food could be this good. The answer is pretty simple – executive chef Andrew Carmellini. He’s worked at many of the trailblazing restaurants in the city such as Le Cirque and Lespinasse, so he’s got the chops. And with Spotted Pig guru Ken Friedman involved, LV was primed to be a foodie mecca.

The space is casual and open with simple wood tables and banquets. It’s a large restaurant with ample open air seating and plenty of dark wood and diffused light that set a low-key taverna feel. Up front, a curvy wine bar beckons a few scenesters, but don’t be fooled – Locanda Verde is a place for foodies.

The most sensational item on the menu is the warm sheep’s milk ricotta with sea salt and herbs. This was the appetizer that incited the aforementioned melting walls. This dish alone is reason enough to visit this miraculous restaurant. How do such simple ingredients deliver such richness and intensity? Astonishingly, everything on the menu qualifies as addictive – the lamb meatball sliders made me wonder why anything is made with cow anymore, and the robiolo raviolini with spring mushrooms and vermouth was so succulent and rich that I thought I might pass out.

Go there now.

 

Public

What makes it hot: the funky, hip atomosphere matches the clientelle and the food.

212-343-7011

210 Elizabeth
Near Prince

Rating: Addictive

Cuisine: American Nouveau/New Zealand
Entree Price: $20-$28
Meals: Open for dinner every day. Brunch on Sat and Sun.

Review

The space is Gatsby meets Ian Schrader meets Marian the Librarian. Yes, a card catalog (for those who are old enough to remember what those are) and reference section flank the bar area, but to my dismay you can’t actually check out books or go hunting through a library for some rare Chaucer work. Everything here is just for show.

One of the things you can’t deny Public is its coolness factor. They’ve got the Soho-boutique-soundtrack playing, cool kids (in their 30’s) at every turn and sheer white sheets cordoning off the main dining area. And then there’s the lighting. I’m guessing multiple chapters of a lighting textbook could be devoted to this place. Small glass globes line the wall of the bar area, and they’re filled with clear liquid and a rugged, natural blazing wick. Candles are everywhere, and the light bulbs look as if they could be some of Edison’s first prototypes. There is even what looks to be a smallish tent that serves as a giant lamp shade.

The food is just as funky and adventurous as the surroundings – which makes the experience all the more fun. If you’re into anchovies, theirs are probably the best in the area. The scallops with chili sauce, plantains and creme fraiche are fantastic – though (like many things here) a bit too salty. The New Zealand venison on a coriander falafel is seared perfectly and the flavors work well together. Other fun things on the menu include the roast duck breast with peach chutney and taro root pancake as well as the snail and oxtail ravioli with pickled shiitake mushrooms. Public is a groovy place with tasty food, but you should also be prepared for just a smidge of pretense from time to time.

Dell'anima

212-366-6633
38 Eighth Ave
At Jane Street

What makes it hot: consistently amazing food in a stylish neighborhood spot.

Rating: Almost Addictive

Cuisine: Italina
Entree Price: $16-$30
Meals: NDinner Daily from 5:30PM to 2AM; Brunch on Sat and Sun from 11AM to 3PM.

Most addictive dish: all of the pastas

Review

All the jaunty fellows in the West Village looking for hip Italian food head to dell'anima. It's not that this place has over the top mind blowing food or that the space is perfect and hidden from the tourists. It's just that it fires on all cylinders. The food is really quite nice, the service is consistently solid and the atmosphere delivers on jiggy and warmth at the same time - a tricky combination.

First, the space: scalloped ceilings continue down the wall adding charm and noise control to the atmosphere, and the lighting is at the perfectly dimmed, yet warm level. There are several bar areas to draw you in for a glass of wine or for a full meal. The cool kids always have dinner at the bar - and you should too.

I've eaten here several times, and the food is consistently good. You should start with any of the bruschette as they're all worth it (some that they've had in the past include ricotta, chick peas and a garlic spread). The pastas change often and are homemade daily. Ask your server for a reco, or if you see pizzocheria or risotto on the menu, go for those. Of the mains, the chicken is a suptuous winner in my book, but they're all good.