79 Orchard Street (at Grand)
New York, NY 10002
212-219-9545
Rating: Addictive
Cuisine: Austrian
Entree Price: $8-$17
Hours: Open for dinner 5PM-11PM every day
Most addictive dish: spaetzle
Review
Affable intellectuals, low-key foodies and hungry ex-pats all cozy up to the incandescent-lit bar at Café Katja for some of the most mind-numbing Austrian food in the lower east side. They’re all addicted, and they all admit it. The surprisingly simple design (exposed brick and hardwood floor) somehow generates an aura of snuggliness that makes the ample number of diners soften as they unwind from their demanding day and await the perfectly prepared Eastern European comfort food with one of the many imported beers on tap in hand.
While the Gosser (a delicious lager) is a fantastic way to start, it’s the food that gives this place its real magnetism. The spaetzle (no matter which preparation is on the menu) will make your eyes pulse. It’s so rich, yet subtle at the same time. The Austrian meatballs with mashed potatoes and fried onions is another winner. The consistent theme here seems to be under-the-radar flavors. Nothing hits you over the head, but the goodness is all there; and just like your favorite cocktail, the flavors sneak up and wash over you when you least expect it. Since it is Austrian, you will find the expected wursts on the menu, and although I’m not a huge sausage fan they were some of the best I’ve tried.